Literally the term Gulmarg refers to
a place with abundance of flowers. Situated at a distance of 56 kilometres South
West of Srinagar, Gulmarg attracts the largest number of tourists among all hill
resorts in Kashmir. It has one of the longest and highest (12000 feet) ski
slopes in Asia. This apart, the World’s highest (8700 feet) Golf Course is also
located here. Many of the foreigners who come here are skiing enthusiasts,
though there were very few of them when we visited. We were told that they
arrive in large numbers during winter when the competitions are organized.
Gulmarg was known as Gourimarg centuries back but in the 16th century Sultan
Yusuf Chak excitedly called it as Gulmarg and the name lives on. This place was
a favourite with the Emperor Jehangir of the Mughal Dynasty. He used to come
here frequently and seems to have attempted to make out an inventory of various
species of flowers growing here.
We were camping at Srinagar. By the
time we were ready to proceed to Gulmarg it was nearly 10.00 AM. The hangover of
our visit to Sonmarg a day earlier made us to sleep a little longer. The extra
sleep energised us and we were geared to enjoy Gulmarg to the fullest extent.
We commenced our journey without wasting further time. Our driver had foretold
the desirability of reaching Gulmarg as early as possible. He was also in touch
with the Guide who was waiting for our arrival. The road was quite wide and
straight except a diversion. Soon we were at a township known as Tangmarg and it
took only 40 minutes to cover the distance of 40 kilometres. From here we had to
climb a mountain on a narrow winding road. But before that we were required to
equip ourselves with heavy winter clothing, e.g. gum boots, hand gloves, fur
caps etc. We also procured long rain coats as well, keeping in mind the previous
day’s experience at Sonmarg. All these gears were available on hire at that
point. As said earlier, the road up the hill was narrow. We were told that
during winter tourists can come up to this point only and thereafter they need
to board special vehicles which are equipped with chains on their wheels. This
facilitates navigation through the snow covered path.
We continued our journey on the
mountain road with Pine trees all around. This stretch needs about 30 minutes
drive to cover around 15/16 kilometres. Finally we arrive at a point with a gate
to the left and disembark from our vehicles as tourist vehicles are not allowed
to enter. Nevertheless there was a road leading inside with meadows to the
right as far as the eyes could see. To reach the snow covered mountain ranges,
we had three options. We could go on horse back up to the foot of the snow clad
mountains or reach the base station for the Gondola (Ropeway) service.
Horses/Ponies were available to our right but we decided to walk the distance
and followed many others who were on their foot. Although we could have covered
some 2 kilometres, it was a pleasant walk passing through the beautiful tourist
villas/cottages to our left. Very soon we were at the Gondola Station which had
a very long queue in front of the ticket counter. Fortunately our Guide was with
us who volunteered to fetch our tickets for the Gondola ride. We escaped from
locating the tail end of the queue and standing there for our turn. Perhaps the
guide had only such jobs to perform and was fully experienced. Incidentally
Kashmir is also plagued with corruption at every level.
The cost of the ticket was Rs.300.00
per person including children above 3 years and that too up to the 1st stage at
Khilanmarg (Kungdoori). On getting the tickets we proceeded to
board the Gondolas. After a little wait we moved in. The Gondola has a seating
capacity for 6 and is fully covered. One can, however, get the beautiful views
through the transparent panels (wind screen). Use of cameras got restricted as
the wind screen was not clear enough to obtain sharper images. During our upward
journey we came across small huts with flat roofs beneath. Some kind of
vegetation was visible over the roof tops, a rustic kind of roof garden for
growing seasonal vegetables. It did not take much time to reach the first stop
at Khilanmarg where we were required to get down. Once again we
needed to buy tickets for our onward journey to the 2nd and final stage
at Apharwat costing Rs.500.00 per head. Now we were very close
to the snow covered hill slopes of another mountain. The ticket counter here was
also over crowded but we were not much concerned as we had with us an
experienced guide!.
We observed that the the issuance of
tickets was being interrupted followed by announcements about the bad weather
conditions uphill. It was resumed within 20 minutes or so and then again a
similar announcement followed. We, leaving our guide back, engaged ourselves in
exploring the area. We learnt that another rope way from here, a Chair Lift,
which was not operational at that time, goes up to the snow covered mountain
slopes ahead where skiing competitions are held during winter. Snow Rugby matches are also organised occasionally. The skiing slopes
known as Marry Shoulder is supposed to be one of the best in
the world. They charge Rs.200.00 per head but children below the age of 10 are
not permitted to board the Chair Lifts which have a capacity for four.
After about an hour and half, we had
our tickets and could board another Gondola to take us to Apharwat. The onward
journey commenced. After some time we found ourselves amidst clouds and it
started raining. The gondola stopped in the mid air and after remaining
suspended for some time we were on the go. Finally we entered the Gondola
station where we readied ourselves to get down but the doors refused to open.
Lo! we were returning. We could perceive that the weather conditions were not
conducive thereat. Finally, after being airborne for over 40 minutes, we were
back at Khilanmarg. Another ride on the Gondola brought us to the base from
where we walked back to the main road. We reached our vehicles and headed to
Srinagar.
Though we regretted for not having
been able to disembark at the top of the mountain, at least I was a bit relaxed
for I could have had problems in breathing at that height of over 13500 feet.
Nevertheless all of us were happy for at least having had an opportunity of
riding the most elevated ropeway in the world. Gulmarg is an all-weather resort
with refreshing summer meadows and pastoral scenes. Its legendary beauty, adventure opportunities, prime
location and proximity to Srinagar naturally makes it one of the premier hill
resorts in the country. The beauty all around
is heavenly.
Note: Online booking facility
(E-Tickets) for Gondola tickets for both the stages is available at:
