Authored by
P.N. Sampath Kumar
Cochin Shipyard, Kochi
Emal: sapath_63@redffmal.com
Emal: sapath_63@redffmal.com
We proceeded to Melaka on a two day trip last summer from Kuala Lumpur in mid March.
Melaka could only be reached by road. Its location is about 200 km south West of
Kuala Lumpur and located in between KL and Singapore almost midway, though one
need not touch Melaka to go to Singapore.
The inter city bus stations in Kuala Lumpur are no less than
an international airport in design systems and facilities. One has to report 15 minutes in advance and
wait at the air conditioned boarding area.
Buses could be boarded through assigned gates only upon arrival of the
bus; very professional.
The journey was comfortable and took about 3 hours. Malaysian landscape is full of oil palms and rubber
trees and occasional patches of forest.
We landed at Melaka Central (Malaya language has no script
of their own; they use English alphabets to write) at around 2.00 noon. We hired a taxi, paid 20 Ringgits and safely
landed in the ‘Old Melaka Guest House’, located in the heart of the city.
After a quick shower we left on foot, in search of some food
to begin with, with a city map gifted by our friend Mr Chua, the owner of the
Guest House.
Melaka is famous for its food but it was not the right time to experiment. So we tried the first Indian restaurant we found on our way. The food was predominantly non vegetarian which is not to our liking. We got satisfied with the limited options available.
Melaka is famous for its food but it was not the right time to experiment. So we tried the first Indian restaurant we found on our way. The food was predominantly non vegetarian which is not to our liking. We got satisfied with the limited options available.
The streets had shops on both sides varying from grocery
shops, hardware shops, flour mills, restaurants, etc.etc., owned either by
Chinese or Tamils. Most of them proudly
displayed in their shops portraits of their grand / great grand parents. The footpaths of most of the roads were seen
floored with the then famous decorative Chinese ceramic tiles.
This town is spread over either sides of the river flowing
east-west, connected by bridge (only one bridge those days) which could be
covered in two days time on foot. (Subsequent
land reclamation of course changed the course of the river and flows southwards
towards the end) Northern side included the sultanate, which was later
converted into a fort by the invaders.
Southern side of the river had the warehouses and trading / business /
public establishments.
Walking towards the north we reached the famous bridge which
played a major role during the Portuguese strike. (This bridge was knocked down
by the Sultans to block passage of Portuguese warriors but was rebuilt by the
attackers with the help of trading community, crossed the bridge and surrounded
the palace. The sultan had by then
vacated the palace and fled to Johor on the back of his elephant)
We decided not to cross the bridge and turned to our left
and walked through the banks of the river, guided by our son, who was holding
the city map. We ventured into the first
monument sighted, a church. Oh, this is
the on seen in the Melakan tourism literature. My son exclaimed. This (“Christ
Church ”) built by the Dutch, is said to
be the oldest functioning protestant church in Malaysia . Originally built by the Dutch in 1753, and
subsequently taken over by the British and consecrated by the Archbishop from
Calcutta. This Church, has in its front a beautiful fountain built
commemorating the visit of British Queen in the early 20th Century.
Walking further up, following other tourists, we arrived at the
hill top from where the sea and the surroundings are visible. Here stands the historic St Paul ’s church, built by Portuguese in 1521. When the Dutch took over, they demolished
it and created their own place of worship for some time. When the British came subsequently, they used
this monument as their gunnery and a strategic vantage point.
The church seems to have had a prayer hall, an altar, etc. but the major visible proofs of its past history are the graves. Here is the European priest St Francis Xavier lived for a long period and converted few thousand locals to Christianity. He died, on his journey to
The Portuguese constructed a huge Fort, after demolishing
the Sultan’s palace, around the Malaka hill, facing the river. One of the monuments that withstood the test
of time is ‘AFAMOSA’ (meaning the famous), the gate of the fortress, leading to
the hill top, located on the foothills of the St Paul ’s Church. This claims to be one of the oldest surviving
European constructions in Asia .
Excavations around Melaka are still on. In some places, even the excavation sites
are showcased with creative lighting and adequate safety measures where wall
constructions of different period are identified.
Traditionally, Malaka has a unique architectural
method. Wood is used abundantly to
construct buildings.
The Royal Palace of Parameswara and his successors is
reproduced in its full size to the left of Afamosa. It would have been a huge challenge before
the archaeological architects. Made of
wood in traditional style, it is claimed that the palace has been assembled
without using a single Nail. The mere sight of it from a distance itself is
mind-boggling. The palace acting as a museum is open to
public, wherein the whole history of Melaka is displayed with great imagination
and creativity. The landscape
surrounding the palace is recreated to suit the period. Interestingly the forbidden gardens meant for
the queens are reproduced (though not known exactly what type of plants and trees
were grown), with rare species trees and plants.
Walking towards the river, a giant wheel was seen at a
distance on the bank of the river. We
went closer. It was a wooden water
wheel, reproduced and erected, based on the information available. This system was employed to keep the water at
navigable level by drawing sea water to the river.
To be continued.....
