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Sunday, April 1, 2012

Armenians in Chennai

With a population of around 4 million, Armenia is a small Country in central Asia which once was a mighty empire. It gained independence and became a Republic after the dissolution of the former Soviet Union in 1991. India’s Armenian connection could be several centuries old for one Thomas of Cana is said to have visited South West India sometime in the 8/9th century  CE. He is said to have been an Armenian and was accompanied by several families. Though not much is known about him, he is some times referred to as a merchant and sometimes as a Bishop. A group of Catholics in Kerala also claim to be his descendents.  Incidentally Armenia happens to be the first country in the world to officially embrace Christianity way back in the 4th century CE.
 
Unlike Jews and Parsees, the Armenians did not look to India for asylum or shelter, they came in  to trade and  make money.  During the 16th century CE, Mughal Emperor Akbar invited Armenians to settle down at Agra with all trading rights. Over a period of time the population grew and  Agra had a sizeable Armenian population. They also settled down at Surat and became renowned merchants. Likewise they spread to other cities as well,  trading mainly in precious stones, jewellery, silk and spices.
 
Chennai has an Armenian Street and still is known by that name. However there are no Armenians to be found as such. All that remains is a beautiful Church dedicated to St. Mary, reminding their glorious past. In this business area of George Town they lived peacefully, with their own houses,  lower portion of which served as a store house for their merchandise. The said Church is amongst one of the heritage buildings of Chennai. During 1668 they had a temporary Church built of timber within the precincts of Fort St. George. In 1712 they had a permanent structure but immediately thereafter the city of Chennai came into French possession for some time. During the French reign the Armenian Church is said to have been demolished but some say that it was done by the British. Eventually in 1772 the present Church came to be constructed on a piece of land belonging to a wealthy Armenian.   It had his private chapel and cemetery. It is only because of the existence of this Church that the City could connect to those Armenians who once roamed around. Incidentally their population all over India is around 350 only and the largest number being at Kolkata. It is their Church at Kolkata which takes care of the Chennai Church and its upkeep through a resident care taker.
 
Existence of an Armenian Street and a Church thereat was well known to me and possibly I have passed through the street many times  when I was young. But then I did only loafing around. Peeping into the past as an obsession developed much later. But even when that dawned, my stays in Chennai used to be too short and confined in a particular area. This time, I had plenty of time and could bank on my brothers help to move around with a personal conveyance. I landed on the Armenian Street one day and looked around. Yes there were the doors that lead to the Armenian Church as I could gather from what was written above. Unfortunately the door was closed. On enquiry a pavement vendor asked me to come at 5.00 PM but while I was conversing I found the door being opened and a watchman coming out. On enquiry the watchman told that I need to come between 9.30 AM and 2.30 PM. He frustrated all my pleas and attempts to get in. Incidentally the door and the walls were so high that one can not get even a glimpse of the Church behind.

A week later I once again visited the street but this time the doors were pretty open and I was well within the time span prescribed for visitors. A gentleman who was sitting inside welcomed me with all courtesies. He was Mr. Trevor Alexander, the caretaker belonging to the local Anglo Indian community.
 
The above one is the Bell Tower
This is the Church  (from Wikimedia)
Immediately upon entry, the imposing structure that greets you is that of the Bell Tower and it is the one  which gets portrayed to denote the Church. The real Church is a humble one with practically a flat roof just on its right side. There was a wooden ladder leading up to the tower but people are not being allowed for fear of the ladder crumbling down. Mr. Alexander took pains to restrain me suggesting that apart from being old, the ladder is too steep and one may encounter fatal falls due to giddiness. Perforce I thought it would be wiser to go by his words.
 

Erected in memory of Mrs. Coromsimee Leembruggen
On the right there is a corridor adjoining the Church. Some wall hangings could be seen with a marble plaque embedded into the wall to commemorate the visit of their Patriarch in 1963. It was serene inside the Church with St. Mary at the Altar and a candle kept burning. I was at peace with myself and relished the quietness. Beneath the Altar there were miniature paintings depicting the scenes from Jesus’ life. At the other end there was a balcony for the Church Choir group to be seated.
 

Once again outside the Church, the area is covered by a number of Frangipani trees bearing large white flowers. Probably the decomposed bodies of around 370 Armenians buried under the soil are providing extra nutrients to the trees there to grow so well. All the graves are at the ground level and it would be difficult not to walk over them unless some one cares to see the inscriptions they contain. As an exception there is a well elevated and well maintained grave of Reverend Harutyum Shmavonian who breathed his last in 1824. It was he who brought out the first Armenian journal in the world  "Azdarar" in 1794. I was curious to have a look at that journal, alas!, not a single copy exists at least at the Chennai Church. It was here that the Armenians of that time prepared a draft constitution for an independent country in 1781. Ironically  Armenia became independent only after the dismemberment of the Soviet Union in1991.
 
It would be of interest to learn that Armenians unlike other Christians do not celebrate X’mas on the 25th of December. They are Eastern Orthodox Christians and claim to have been celebrating X’mas on the 6th of January much before the date was prescribed  in 325 AD. They continue that tradition. So are the  Orthodox Church of Russia but their date being 7th of January.
While returning home, I was too sorry for not having climbed the Bell tower which still has 6 large bells weighing between 150 to 200 kgs. The oldest one was cast at London in 1754 by the makers of Big Ben which was recast at Chennai (known as Madras at that time) in 1808. This bell is said to bear an inscription in Tamil. 

Incidentally the Armenian Association of India is planning to celebrate the 300th year of the Church during this year.
 

41 comments:

  1. just Amazing...i never knew this. I love visiting such architectural and historically significant buildings! Good to see that its fairly well maintained. Thanks PNS for this post!

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  2. The place is so tranquil and beautiful and it has so much history wrapped within its walls. The description took me in too and the photos complemented the write up so beautifully. Many thanks for sharing the interesting location and information, I absolutely loved my virtual tour.

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  3. Hello PNS,

    This is a very informative post packed with details of the past and present of Armenians in India. No doubt, you have carried out a detailed research on the subject and reading your post makes me feel that the small Armenians nation has contributed much to our history. The photos are excellent and gives a clear idea of the church.

    Actually several decades back I was a daily visitor to the Armenian St. because we had an office on that street. Besides on the same street near the Paris Corner there is the famous ST.Antony's church and the road used to get filled with devotees on that day.

    I thoroughly enjoyed this wonderful post.

    Wish you all the best,
    Joseph

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  4. Good that I read this post.
    I have yet to make my trip to Chennai and when I am there, this is one of the places I am sure to visit.

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  5. Namaste.....
    Interesting.
    Note worthy: even in death there is preferential treatment of one over others as one grave is maintained and cared for while the others are left unattended and overgrown. hmmmmm, interesting indeed.

    Have a splendid week.
    Rhapsody
    https://plus.google.com/101099217204323189067
    http://www.shelfari.com/rhapsodyphoenix
    http://twitter.com/rhapsodyphoenix

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  6. स्थापत्य कला का अद्भुत नमूना।
    हमेशा की तरह एक इन्फॉर्मेटिव आलेख।

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  7. This post is an eye opener. Amazing to note that there are still Armenians living in India. Very informative & nice you took the trouble to visit this church and provide such good information. Pictures are excellent. I don't think I have visited Armenian Street at all.I understand that this street stands renamed as Aran Manai Karan Thruvu. Quite a tongue twister isn't it ?

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  8. wonderful post! lovely pics and very informative too!

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  9. I had no clue about this side of the history at all .. Wow
    Thank you so much info..
    beautiful pictures

    Bikram's

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  10. thanks for sharing these great information

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  11. Reading this post was an experience in itself. Even though I live in Chennai, I have not (yet) visited all the historical monuments. It's mainly because I don't have much information.

    I am aware of the armenian street, but I didn't know that there was a history behind its name. Lot of information, and good narration.

    Destination Infinity

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  12. I like seeing these interesting photos...I did not know about the Armenians either...thanks for the info

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  13. As always, a fascinating post, you give such a rich insight into a country I knew very little of.

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  14. What an informative post! I did not know the history of Armenians in India.

    Lovely pictures- it must be quite an imposing structure!

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  15. Hi to everybody. People are still interested in history of our small nation. Thanks a lot and find a link where you can see beauty of that church on web. Enjoy it please

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  16. Sorry, here is the link http://www.view360.in/armenianchurch/

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  17. @Anonymous:
    Thank you. You could have given your name or email ID. Incidentally availability of 3D view at that link was foreknown. My attempt is just to create interest and once the initiation takes place, people are bound to get at that as well.

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  18. It was really great experience reading this post. Thanks to you for sharing your valuable experience.

    It was a beautiful piece of article on the armanian history which I knew very little about.

    Congratulations

    Sampath

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  19. Interesting post I was not know this facts ..Thanks Uncle

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  20. This is really informative. You could have got a few pics of bell tower too.. Never knew about Armenian connection..

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Chitra. The Bell Tower has been captured in all its glory and it is there. I have just now added a caption lest people get confused.

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  21. Interesting information. Had no idea of this before.

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  22. Thanks PNS. I thought that is what you see first when you enter the premises of the church.Let me zoom and have a closer look. It is really beautiful.

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  23. This is fascinating!!! I'm very familiar with the Armenian culture, as my Russian family is from Armavir, a small Armenian town in the Northern Caucasus. I had no idea there was an Armenian diaspora in India, no wonder so many Indians I encounter have Armenian last names, quite like yours Mr. Subramanian :))) Terrific post, thank you so much for sharing!!

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    1. Thank you Maryam. I am intrigued. Do Armenians have have Subramanian as the last name. If so I may have to cross check my DNA!

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    2. You should definitely look into it... the -ian ending of your last name suggests Armenian origins :)))

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  24. Great and fascinating post.
    Thanks for sharing.

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  25. very interesting!!
    i also came to know about armenian church through some blogs and got very interested..its in my list of places to visit in chennai...

    you have provided lots of information with pics...now im much more eager to visit!!

    http://sushmita-smile.blogspot.in

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  26. Many thanks for so interesting reportage and for very nice photos!!!
    Best regards

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  27. Your posts are a treasure trove of information,PN!

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  28. Loved the blog…
    hyderabadonnet.com

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  29. beautifully u have narrated church is on list will visit its soon .

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  30. This is interesting! Very well researched and presented. Great post.

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  31. Looks like I lost the previous comment.
    Truly a great post Subramanian Sir!
    Very well presented, rich with info.

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  32. A very interesting information sir. All through our lives, we go there, say aranmanaikaara theru, and come back. Isn't it the same street? Never once we bothered to enter that Church!.

    Your interest in finding about these places and sharing it with the readers is amazing.

    Thank you.

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  33. Much like the Jews of Fort Kochi! Always a pleasure to read such article. PNS Saab Calutta too has some settlement right, I dont seem to recall where are the from, let me try

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  34. Much Like the Jews of Fort Kochi. I recollect Kolkotta too has a settlement, I dont recall if its Armenian, Great post as always

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    Replies
    1. I have a post on Jews of Kochi as well:
      http://paliakara.blogspot.in/2008/10/jews-of-cochin.html

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  35. great article..the Armenians in Surat, Cochin, Madras and finally Calcutta were the traders who shaped much of the history in those days!!

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  36. Dear Mr. Subramanian,

    It's really great to see your nice piece on Chennai Armenians. I've visited this Church two times already. I along with my wife, who is an Armenians are already working towards regaining the lost glory of Indo-Armenian past relationship through our organization "Indo-Armenian Friendship NGO". For you and your readers, who have more interest in this, can follow us through our blog ""http://india-armenia.blogspot.in/ and can join us for a lively discussion in our FACEBOOK GROUP: INDIA-ARMENIA FRIENDSHIP (https://www.facebook.com/groups/india.armenia/).
    Thanks and best regards
    Rananjay Anand

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  37. Dear Mr. Subramanian,

    It's really great to see your nice piece on Chennai Armenians. I've visited this Church two times already. I along with my wife, who is an Armenians are already working towards regaining the lost glory of Indo-Armenian past relationship through our organization "Indo-Armenian Friendship NGO". For you and your readers, who have more interest in this, can follow us through our blog ""http://india-armenia.blogspot.in/ and can join us for a lively discussion in our FACEBOOK GROUP: INDIA-ARMENIA FRIENDSHIP (https://www.facebook.com/groups/india.armenia/).
    Thanks and best regards
    Rananjay Anand

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