With a population of around 4
million, Armenia is a small Country in central Asia which once was a mighty
empire. It gained independence and became a Republic after the dissolution of
the former Soviet Union in 1991. India’s Armenian connection could be several
centuries old for one Thomas of Cana is said to have visited South West India
sometime in the 8/9th century CE. He is said to have been an Armenian and was
accompanied by several families. Though not much is known about him, he is some
times referred to as a merchant and sometimes as a Bishop. A group of Catholics
in Kerala also claim to be his descendents. Incidentally Armenia happens to be
the first country in the world to officially embrace Christianity way back in
the 4th century CE.
Unlike Jews and Parsees, the
Armenians did not look to India for asylum or shelter, they came in to trade
and make money. During the 16th century CE, Mughal Emperor Akbar invited
Armenians to settle down at Agra with all trading rights. Over a period of
time the population grew and Agra had a sizeable Armenian population. They also
settled down at Surat and became renowned merchants. Likewise they spread to
other cities as well, trading mainly in precious stones, jewellery, silk and
spices.
Chennai has an Armenian Street and
still is known by that name. However there are no Armenians to be found as such.
All that remains is a beautiful Church dedicated to St. Mary, reminding their
glorious past. In this business area of George Town they lived peacefully, with
their own houses, lower portion of which served as a store house for their
merchandise. The said Church is amongst one of the heritage buildings of
Chennai. During 1668 they had a temporary Church built of timber within the
precincts of Fort St. George. In 1712 they had a permanent structure but
immediately thereafter the city of Chennai came into French possession for some
time. During the French reign the Armenian Church is said to have been
demolished but some say that it was done by the British. Eventually in 1772 the
present Church came to be constructed on a piece of land belonging to a wealthy
Armenian. It had his private chapel and
cemetery. It is only because of the existence of this Church that the City could
connect to those Armenians who once roamed around. Incidentally their population
all over India is around 350 only and the largest number being at Kolkata. It
is their Church at Kolkata which takes care of the Chennai Church and its upkeep
through a resident care taker.
Existence of an Armenian Street and a
Church thereat was well known to me and possibly I have passed through the
street many times when I was young. But then I did only loafing around. Peeping
into the past as an obsession developed much later. But even when that dawned,
my stays in Chennai used to be too short and confined in a particular area. This
time, I had plenty of time and could bank on my brothers help to move around
with a personal conveyance. I landed on the Armenian Street one day and looked
around. Yes there were the doors that lead to the Armenian Church as I could
gather from what was written above. Unfortunately the door was closed. On
enquiry a pavement vendor asked me to come at 5.00 PM but while I was conversing
I found the door being opened and a watchman coming out. On enquiry the watchman
told that I need to come between 9.30 AM and 2.30 PM. He frustrated all my pleas
and attempts to get in. Incidentally the door and the walls were so high that
one can not get even a glimpse of the Church behind.
A week later I once again visited the
street but this time the doors were pretty open and I was well within the time
span prescribed for visitors. A gentleman who was sitting inside welcomed me
with all courtesies. He was Mr. Trevor Alexander, the caretaker belonging to the
local Anglo Indian community.
The above one is the Bell Tower
This is the Church (from Wikimedia) |
It would be of interest to learn that
Armenians unlike other Christians do not celebrate X’mas on the 25th of
December. They are Eastern Orthodox Christians and claim to have been
celebrating X’mas on the 6th of January much before the date was prescribed in
325 AD. They continue that tradition. So are the Orthodox Church of Russia but
their date being 7th of January.
While returning home, I was too sorry
for not having climbed the Bell tower which still has 6 large bells weighing
between 150 to 200 kgs. The oldest one was cast at London in 1754 by the makers
of Big Ben which was recast at Chennai (known as Madras at that time) in 1808.
This bell is said to bear an inscription in Tamil.
Incidentally the Armenian Association of India is planning to celebrate the 300th year of the Church during this year.
Incidentally the Armenian Association of India is planning to celebrate the 300th year of the Church during this year.
just Amazing...i never knew this. I love visiting such architectural and historically significant buildings! Good to see that its fairly well maintained. Thanks PNS for this post!
ReplyDeleteThe place is so tranquil and beautiful and it has so much history wrapped within its walls. The description took me in too and the photos complemented the write up so beautifully. Many thanks for sharing the interesting location and information, I absolutely loved my virtual tour.
ReplyDeleteHello PNS,
ReplyDeleteThis is a very informative post packed with details of the past and present of Armenians in India. No doubt, you have carried out a detailed research on the subject and reading your post makes me feel that the small Armenians nation has contributed much to our history. The photos are excellent and gives a clear idea of the church.
Actually several decades back I was a daily visitor to the Armenian St. because we had an office on that street. Besides on the same street near the Paris Corner there is the famous ST.Antony's church and the road used to get filled with devotees on that day.
I thoroughly enjoyed this wonderful post.
Wish you all the best,
Joseph
Good that I read this post.
ReplyDeleteI have yet to make my trip to Chennai and when I am there, this is one of the places I am sure to visit.
Namaste.....
ReplyDeleteInteresting.
Note worthy: even in death there is preferential treatment of one over others as one grave is maintained and cared for while the others are left unattended and overgrown. hmmmmm, interesting indeed.
Have a splendid week.
Rhapsody
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स्थापत्य कला का अद्भुत नमूना।
ReplyDeleteहमेशा की तरह एक इन्फॉर्मेटिव आलेख।
This post is an eye opener. Amazing to note that there are still Armenians living in India. Very informative & nice you took the trouble to visit this church and provide such good information. Pictures are excellent. I don't think I have visited Armenian Street at all.I understand that this street stands renamed as Aran Manai Karan Thruvu. Quite a tongue twister isn't it ?
ReplyDeletewonderful post! lovely pics and very informative too!
ReplyDeleteI had no clue about this side of the history at all .. Wow
ReplyDeleteThank you so much info..
beautiful pictures
Bikram's
thanks for sharing these great information
ReplyDeleteReading this post was an experience in itself. Even though I live in Chennai, I have not (yet) visited all the historical monuments. It's mainly because I don't have much information.
ReplyDeleteI am aware of the armenian street, but I didn't know that there was a history behind its name. Lot of information, and good narration.
Destination Infinity
I like seeing these interesting photos...I did not know about the Armenians either...thanks for the info
ReplyDeleteAs always, a fascinating post, you give such a rich insight into a country I knew very little of.
ReplyDeleteWhat an informative post! I did not know the history of Armenians in India.
ReplyDeleteLovely pictures- it must be quite an imposing structure!
Hi to everybody. People are still interested in history of our small nation. Thanks a lot and find a link where you can see beauty of that church on web. Enjoy it please
ReplyDeleteSorry, here is the link http://www.view360.in/armenianchurch/
ReplyDelete@Anonymous:
ReplyDeleteThank you. You could have given your name or email ID. Incidentally availability of 3D view at that link was foreknown. My attempt is just to create interest and once the initiation takes place, people are bound to get at that as well.
It was really great experience reading this post. Thanks to you for sharing your valuable experience.
ReplyDeleteIt was a beautiful piece of article on the armanian history which I knew very little about.
Congratulations
Sampath
Interesting post I was not know this facts ..Thanks Uncle
ReplyDeleteThis is really informative. You could have got a few pics of bell tower too.. Never knew about Armenian connection..
ReplyDeleteThanks Chitra. The Bell Tower has been captured in all its glory and it is there. I have just now added a caption lest people get confused.
DeleteInteresting information. Had no idea of this before.
ReplyDeleteThanks PNS. I thought that is what you see first when you enter the premises of the church.Let me zoom and have a closer look. It is really beautiful.
ReplyDeleteThis is fascinating!!! I'm very familiar with the Armenian culture, as my Russian family is from Armavir, a small Armenian town in the Northern Caucasus. I had no idea there was an Armenian diaspora in India, no wonder so many Indians I encounter have Armenian last names, quite like yours Mr. Subramanian :))) Terrific post, thank you so much for sharing!!
ReplyDeleteThank you Maryam. I am intrigued. Do Armenians have have Subramanian as the last name. If so I may have to cross check my DNA!
DeleteYou should definitely look into it... the -ian ending of your last name suggests Armenian origins :)))
DeleteGreat and fascinating post.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing.
very interesting!!
ReplyDeletei also came to know about armenian church through some blogs and got very interested..its in my list of places to visit in chennai...
you have provided lots of information with pics...now im much more eager to visit!!
http://sushmita-smile.blogspot.in
Many thanks for so interesting reportage and for very nice photos!!!
ReplyDeleteBest regards
Your posts are a treasure trove of information,PN!
ReplyDeleteLoved the blog…
ReplyDeletehyderabadonnet.com
beautifully u have narrated church is on list will visit its soon .
ReplyDeleteThis is interesting! Very well researched and presented. Great post.
ReplyDeleteLooks like I lost the previous comment.
ReplyDeleteTruly a great post Subramanian Sir!
Very well presented, rich with info.
A very interesting information sir. All through our lives, we go there, say aranmanaikaara theru, and come back. Isn't it the same street? Never once we bothered to enter that Church!.
ReplyDeleteYour interest in finding about these places and sharing it with the readers is amazing.
Thank you.
Much like the Jews of Fort Kochi! Always a pleasure to read such article. PNS Saab Calutta too has some settlement right, I dont seem to recall where are the from, let me try
ReplyDeleteMuch Like the Jews of Fort Kochi. I recollect Kolkotta too has a settlement, I dont recall if its Armenian, Great post as always
ReplyDeleteI have a post on Jews of Kochi as well:
Deletehttp://paliakara.blogspot.in/2008/10/jews-of-cochin.html
great article..the Armenians in Surat, Cochin, Madras and finally Calcutta were the traders who shaped much of the history in those days!!
ReplyDeleteDear Mr. Subramanian,
ReplyDeleteIt's really great to see your nice piece on Chennai Armenians. I've visited this Church two times already. I along with my wife, who is an Armenians are already working towards regaining the lost glory of Indo-Armenian past relationship through our organization "Indo-Armenian Friendship NGO". For you and your readers, who have more interest in this, can follow us through our blog ""http://india-armenia.blogspot.in/ and can join us for a lively discussion in our FACEBOOK GROUP: INDIA-ARMENIA FRIENDSHIP (https://www.facebook.com/groups/india.armenia/).
Thanks and best regards
Rananjay Anand
Dear Mr. Subramanian,
ReplyDeleteIt's really great to see your nice piece on Chennai Armenians. I've visited this Church two times already. I along with my wife, who is an Armenians are already working towards regaining the lost glory of Indo-Armenian past relationship through our organization "Indo-Armenian Friendship NGO". For you and your readers, who have more interest in this, can follow us through our blog ""http://india-armenia.blogspot.in/ and can join us for a lively discussion in our FACEBOOK GROUP: INDIA-ARMENIA FRIENDSHIP (https://www.facebook.com/groups/india.armenia/).
Thanks and best regards
Rananjay Anand